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As the crow flies, Clayoquot Wilderness Lodge is only 120 miles from Vancouver International Airport, yet it feels like it’s worlds away. With no roads in or out, the upscale resort, which pairs summer camp vibes with meaningful moments in remote nature, is tucked on the shores of the Clayoquot Sound UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in British Columbia.
The 600-acre property, which sits on Ahousaht First Nations land, is blanketed in temperate coastal rainforest and old growth conifer forest, dotted with canvas tent/cabin hybrid accommodations and rocky ocean inlets. You’ll need to take a boat or seaplane from the mainland to get to this secluded section of Vancouver Island—while the seaplane landing can be bumpy, it’s worth it for the views. Here’s what it’s like to stay—and play—at Clayoquot Wilderness Lodge, where I highly recommend spending a serene long weekend, unwinding with an off-the-grid, luxury eco-safari.
What It’s Like to Stay at Clayoquot Wilderness Lodge
When I stepped out of the seaplane onto the dock, a crew of friendly greeters was waiting for me—very White Lotus! General manager Sarah Cruse, aka “Camp Mom,” meets incoming planes and bids farewell to departing guests, along with her two standard poodles, Charlie and Toby. Next, I met Goose and Maverick, the horses that pull carriages of guests along the shoreline road to the log outpost and central resort for check in. There, guests can grab a mocktail or glass of sparkling wine while they get a rundown of their itinerary. After that, they’ll be guided to their canvas cabin-tent via boardwalk or trail.
There are only 25 Canadian safari tents, some tucked away on the estuary under towering rainforest trees and others perched on the banks, overlooking the Clayoquot Sound. Each includes a sumptuous king-sized bed, double sleeper sofa, a cast-iron stove for heat, and an ensuite bathroom at the back with heated floors and an outdoor cedar shower. Also adorning the interior of each tent are furnishings made from naturally fallen trees on property and textiles and art by First Nations artists from the region.
Jennifer Nied
Clayoquot Wilderness Lodge is open seasonally from May to September. Arrival and departure days are Thursdays and Sundays (unless you come via your own private helicopter, lucky you). Nightly rates start at $3,200 CAD and include all meals and daily activities. You can transfer from Vancouver International Airport via floatplane or Tofino via boat.
All meals are served in the lodge restaurant, the Cookhouse (though there are options to take a sack lunch to go for all-day adventures or reserve one of the private dining tents). Executive chef Ben Godin’s seasonal menus include dishes inspired by the wild Canadian coast that showcase local, sustainably harvested ingredients. For example, my hiking group foraged chicken-of-the-woods mushrooms and had the chef prepare a custom dish to enjoy at dinner.
What to Do at Clayoquot Wilderness Lodge
Leading up to arrival, I selected activities and filled out my itinerary, but you can join tours more spontaneously, too. Just a few of the incredible options include hiking in an old-growth forest among trees over 800 years old, kayaking, whale- and bear-watching, fishing for halibut, lingcod, salmon, and more in the sound, horseback riding, guided morning cold plunge rituals, and canyoneering. Even if you pack your schedule with activities, there’s downtime naturally built in to soak up the property and savor the natural sights and sounds. I highly recommend adding on extras like a massage or treatment at the Healing Grounds, an on-property spa in an open-air tent overlooking the estuary. And if you can swing it, a heli picnic at a mountaintop glacier lake takes relaxation to new heights.
Bear- and Whale-Watching in Clayoquot Sound
The first morning, I unzipped the tent door to an insulated bag holding a thermos of coffee, my preferred milk, and a stainless-steel mug. Sitting on my deck, I sipped it and watched the water ripple in the wind. My phone was stashed away and far from my mind—while WIFI is available, it’s limited to one gaming tent near the Cookhouse. I enjoyed scrambled eggs, sourdough toast, and a bowl of berries from the curated buffet before boarding a boat with about eight others for the Sights of the Sound tour. Captain Derrick steered us to an area where we could spot black bears foraging along the rocky shores during low tide. Then, we sailed into deeper waters in hopes of spotting gray whales, humpbacks, and orcas. Derrick used the radio to communicate with other whale-watching cruises, making it more likely that we’d see one of the giants. We didn’t have to wait long. I ended up seeing so many bears, otters, and whale flukes and fins that I had my fill of snapping photos and was able to put my camera away and enjoy the show with my own eyes.
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A few hours later, the clouds burned off. The sun shone bright in the sky as we returned to the dock just in time for lunch. Watching the wildlife worked up an appetite to the tune of butternut squash soup, kale Caesar salad, and mackerel with black bean hummus in the Cookhouse. Each dish was flavorful and fresh and left just enough room for a slice of Basque cheesecake for dessert. To fill my afternoon, I tried out the gym cabin, which housed a solid mix of free weights, a squat rack, cable machines, and cardio equipment.
The Heli Picnic Experience at Clayoquot Wilderness Lodge
I ended the day with a private heli excursion where each moment managed to one-up the last. I took to the sky with pilot Dugge, who has accumulated four years of heli flight time and wears a sticker-clad helmet that says “crashing sucks.” The sunset Sip to Sky heli excursion took me to a small lake near the summit of Mount Ursus, where I shed the clothes over my swimsuit and waded into the water. I acclimated to the chilly temperature and floated around while waiting for my camp companions to get flown up. As we all paddled in the lake and yelled into the rock amphitheater surrounding us to hear how it echoed, our guide Brian set up a full charcuterie spread complete with bubbly right next to the helipad. We munched and sipped as a golden glow settled on peaks far in the distance. As the sun dipped out of sight, it was time to return for even more food at the Cookhouse.
Jennifer Nied
We got the scenic route on the return journey, which started with a climb up to Mount Mariner, where we could see cascading waterfalls and the mountaintop glacier. Then, we descended to the river valley below for the “IMAX experience,” a heart-pounding few minutes of aerial aptitude. The pilot plunged down toward the river and artfully navigated the bird between the trees flanking the calm waters, with increasing G forces at every bend. My jaw dropped and I screeched when the copter skimmed the water, but soon enough, we were back on the meadow helipad safe and sound.
Thankfully, my stomach settled in time for another delightful dinner at the Cookhouse under the full moon. The Dungeness crab adorned with elderflowers and halibut with broccoli and Brussels sprouts were as beautifully plated as they were delicious.
Hiking in the Old Growth Forest of Vancouver Island
The next day’s itinerary called for time on solid ground, going deep in the Ursus Valley with a seven-mile hike amid 2,000-year-old trees. After breakfast, I loaded up my daypack and set out with my guide and group to explore the old-growth forest and brave multiple Bedwell River fordings (water shoes provided). While walking, my knowledgeable guide Ingrid doled out tales about the forest and how industry had impacted the ecology. She pointed out notable flora and fauna that I would likely have missed without her eagle eye and mindful approach. Banana slugs criss-crossed the trails and she told us we could test their anesthetic properties by licking them. No joke. (Ask a guide and they’ll demonstrate firsthand for a boost of courage.)
The property has joined forces with the Canadian Department of Fisheries and Oceans and Ahousaht First Nations to repair environmental damage from the mining and logging industries. Guests also have the option to participate in rehabilitation efforts to give back during their stay.
Jennifer Nied
My group cut the hike a few miles short to return in time for spa treatments. My 60-minute Pacific Rhythm Massage was truly a bespoke experience, from the handpicked evergreen essential oil inhalation to the invigorating warm peppermint towel conclusion. The therapist Leila listened to my monologue about tight muscles and treated each one with the utmost care, melting pesky knots in my calves, hamstrings, and back.
I had just enough time to soak in the hot tub and bask in the alfresco cedar shower before enjoying dinner in one of the private tents outside the Cookhouse. The family-style menu included crispy chicken with carrots, burrata with grapes, blistered shishito peppers, and a steak main dish, with regional wine pairings for each course. A bonus was the foraged chicken-of-the-woods mushrooms we had picked that day on our hike, which the chef grilled just for us. They did in fact taste like chicken—with a slightly different texture. We ended the meal with a house-made chocolate and caramel ice cream bar, rolled in nuts and topped with fire-roasted marshmallows and fudge chunks. This scrumptious dessert was by far my favorite of the trip.
I went to sleep uncertain what my final day around the lodge would bring as low clouds threatened to disrupt my seaplane departure and a highly anticipated canyoneering grand finale. Unpredictable coastal weather can make it hard to solidify plans, but the team at Clayoquot Wilderness Lodge knows how to handle it. They kept everyone on site in the loop throughout the morning. That didn’t mean sitting idly by, though. I packed my bag and was prepared to leave at a moment’s notice, adding bonus activities as the day went on and weather improved.
Glacier Cold Plunges, Kayaking, and Four-Wheeler Tours
I started with the daily cold plunge ritual, which, though painful to admit, was even more effective than the tent-side coffee drops. The ritual started inside with a series of guided breathing exercises to connect our minds and bodies and prepare us for the cold. Next, everyone loaded into the property SUVs, which drove to the glacier-fed pond hidden among the bushes near the horse stables, affectionately known as “little Mexico.” It’s far from tropical as the very same glacier I buzzed by in the helicopter is the source of the water, another reminder of how connected everything is in this wild region. (This is no ice-water-filled plastic barrel.) My guide Brinn and three brave companions stripped down to swimwear and completed one final set of exercises to warm up our muscles before wading into the frigid water. We counted down until two minutes were up. I entered slowly and surprised myself by fulling submerging and sticking it out to the last second before splashing out to my towel.
Jennifer Nied
Teeth chattering and internally invigorated, I relished in one final cedar shower before heading to breakfast. While enjoying my omelet and local berries, I watched as the guides pivoted seamlessly away from the canyoneering (since the weather wasn’t allowing for it) and pulled out kayaks and canoes. I joined a quick, nearly-private tour around the sound with jumping fish and countless sea star and barnacle sightings just below the surface.
After a few hours, the clouds lifted high enough to allow for seaplane travel and one more activity. I opted for a four-wheeler tour and short hike to the suspension bridge, where I got a small taste of what canyoneering would have included. Along the route, I secretly hoped for a black bear sighting, but my guide Brian spotted something even better: a rare rough-skinned newt crossing the dirt road. If humans or pets ingest the tetrodotoxin they secrete, the result is deadly. To keep everyone safe, Brian picked up the critter with a tissue and relocated it off the road in the grassy meadow. There were recent signs of bears, namely a bright berry-hued pile of scat left in the middle of the trail, but no furry sightings.
When we returned, I grabbed my bags and headed to the dock to swap places with the next batch of guests. I hugged Sarah and patted Charlie and Toby on their heads before climbing back into the float plane cabin. Once airborne, I pressed my camera to the window, capturing every last glimpse of the scenery.
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Clayoquot Wilderness Lodge Final Thoughts
While the multi-sensory experiences at Clayoquot Wilderness Lodge are squarely in the once-in-a-lifetime category, what really left a lasting impression was the genuine and welcoming staff. Warmth and positive energy emanated from everyone, from those waiting tables in the Cookhouse to the adventure guides leading excursions. Those easy connections were the true luxury aspect of the property, and really made the stay feel like summer camp for adults in the best way.
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