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Home Other News World & US

The fastest Olympian recently won bronze in speed climbing

Emma Bowman by Emma Bowman
August 8, 2024
in World & US
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The fastest Olympian recently won bronze in speed climbing
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Gold medalist Indonesia’s Veddriq Leonardo (center), silver medallst China’s Wu Peng (left) and bronze medalist UsA’s Sam Watson (right) pose on the podium of the men’s sport climbing speed event during the Paris Olympics at the Le Bourget Sport Climbing Venue northeast of Paris.

Johnathan Nackstrand/AFP via Getty Images

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Johnathan Nackstrand/AFP via Getty Images

NPR is in Paris for the 2024 Summer Olympics. For more of our coverage from the games head to our latest updates.

LE BOURGET, France — If you hold the world record in the fastest Olympic sport you can technically call yourself the fastest-ever Olympian, right?

If so, that title belongs to Team USA speed climber Sam Watson.

At The Olympics, Sport Climbing Is Full Of Unknowns For Athletes And Fans

But that doesn’t necessarily mean you win the medal race.

It was Veddriq Leonardo of Indonesia who scaled the climbing wall and slapped the buzzer the quickest to win gold in the men’s sport climbing speed event final Thursday in Le Bourget, northeast of Paris.

His time was 4.75 seconds (.01 slower than Watson’s brand-new world record), besting China’s Peng Wu, who took silver after posting 4.77 seconds.

Leonardo is the first person to win Indonesia an Olympic gold medal in a sport outside of badminton — and a first for the nation at the Paris Games.

“I feel so amazing, grateful for the competition today,” he said. “I made my dream come true.”

It was an upset to Watson, who set a couple world records this week.

After clinching third, he said: “Obviously I wanted the gold, I wanted to be on the top of the podium, but a couple of millimeters went wrong on my second race and that’s just how it is sometimes. Congratulations to Wu and Leonardo — I’m very excited for the future of speed climbing.”

Sam Watson of Team USA poses with his bronze medal alongside a screen with his world record time of

Sam Watson of Team USA poses with his bronze medal alongside a screen with his world record time of “4.74” seconds during the Sport Climbing medal ceremony at the Paris Summer Olympics 2024 in Le Bourget, France.

Luke Hales/Getty Images

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Luke Hales/Getty Images

Earlier this year, the 18-year-old from Texas set a new world record of 4.79 at the World Cup in China. Then, on Tuesday at the Paris Olympics, Leonardo matched his 4.79 mark. Moments later, in the elimination heats, Watson went even faster — by .04 seconds — to set a world record of 4.75 seconds.

In the semifinal, though, he lost to Chinese climber Peng Wu, 4.93-4.85. The loss fueled him: In the bronze medal race, Watson set another world record of 4.74 seconds.

In sport climbing — a newish addition to the Olympics — two sets of medals are given out: one for the lead and bouldering event and one for the speed event, a change from sport climbing’s inaugural Olympics at the Tokyo Games in 2021, when one medal was awarded for the trifecta.

The decision to combine all disciplines into a single medal event was a controversial one, especially to climbers who don’t view speed as “real” rock climbing because they say it requires less technique and creativity.

Weightlifter Olivia Reeves in training.

In lead, climbers try to get as far up a higher wall as possible. Bouldering is about problem solving shorter, technical routes.

Speed climbing is about who can “Spider-man” climb to the top of the wall the fastest, but — more importantly — it’s about beating the other climber in the two-person race up the 15-meter-high wall (49.2 feet).

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**Conclusion:**

The excitement of the Olympics never fails to captivate us, and the journey of these climbers at the 2024 Paris Games is truly inspiring. From setting world records to claiming unexpected victories, the world of sport climbing is full of surprises and triumphs. As we celebrate the achievements of Veddriq Leonardo, Sam Watson, and Peng Wu, we are reminded of the dedication, passion, and sheer talent that these athletes possess. The future of speed climbing is undoubtedly bright, and we can’t wait to see what the next Olympics will bring. In the meantime, let’s continue to cheer on these extraordinary individuals as they reach new heights, quite literally, in their climbing endeavors.



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